Our Last day in Lecture with Dr. Medicus

It was a quiet last day in Florence maybe because we were so tired. We didn't do much walking and an early dismissal from lecture so the students could pack for home. We finally got to go to Orsan Michele, the first place I visited on my own in Florence, on my first night in the city. I sat on the steps with Eireann, a student I met from our group who had arrived early in Florence also. She was a delightful young woman, energetic and full of interesting ideas. We really clicked! We discussed everything like sisters would in just a few short hours. We had no idea where we really were and it seemed so appropriate to end our last day visiting Orsan Michele, especially since it was the first place I visited when I entered the city.

We continued on to Museo di Palazzo Davanzati, a 14th c nobile families home. I wondered at this point and sadly, not until the last lecture something I should have considered much earlier in my studies. Where did the lower classes live? How did they live? Everywhere we had visited on this trip was of powerful nobile families, rich princely courts and powerful citizens and stately Villas. I had been so awestruck with the wealth and the pomp that I myself had forgotten to ask questions that seem so obvious to me now.

Link: http://www.polomuseale.firenze.it/english/musei/davanzati/



"A man's feet should be planted in his country, but his eyes should survey the world."
George Santayana

Other sights in Firenze..Sunset to Stormy Skies..and Magical Reflections at Night

The Ponte Vecchio after midnight
Panoramic from San Miniato, this was my most favorite place to meditate and spend a little time alone. If you look closely you can see the Roman wall that fortified Firenze during its tumultuous past.

"Sunset, the signature of God on a day, well lived"
Dedicated to my Father Earnest M. Andy (1918-1990)

Just like life the omnious clouds come and go, they help us all to appeciate the sunny days!

I truly hope that you all have been inspired and uplifted by the photographs and the writings. I understand more of the world because of my journey to Italy. I made special friendships and had good fun while understanding a richer part of the world filled with some of the greatest history known to man. More importantly I believe that I grew as a human being and feel very blessed and priviledged to have made this voyage.

The Last Lectures with Dr. Fantoni and Dr. Medicus

Salone dei Cinquecento, Palazzo Vecchio "The Room of the Five Hundred"
Porphyry basin in the courtyard " Boy with a Fish" by Verrochio 1476


Dr. Fantoni led the way with our last lectures inside of the Palazzo Vecchio. The lectures took on a historical life of the Medici and their rise to fame. It appears they were not truly a noble class family, they were bankers and quite wealthy, with resources at an abundance. They cleverly used their financial powers to gain their influence in Firenze that eventually had ties to Rome. Pope Leo X (1475-1478)was Lorenzo's second son, he protected artists and writers at the papal court but also had to deal with Luther's Reformation. This familial connection to Rome secured their fate and legitimacy as worthy leaders of Florence whether noble or not and they ruled Florence for at least two centuries. The cycles (frescoes) on the ceiling in the room of five hundred depicts Florence conquering as victors over Pisa and Sienna, in one of the Medici's hands he clenches onto a document with the signature of the Pope from Rome. This mural is extremely important because to have had Rome on your side meant everything and gave the Medici their license to rule as a noble class family.

The ceiling consists of thirty nine panels which you must take time to read in proper historical chronology in order to understand what and when Florence conquered the nearby regions. I found this lecture to pull everything together for me with relation to the other nobile courts we visited. To think that Machiavelli once roamed this interior space with the Medici as a political and diplomatic missions office holder is quite fascinating for someone who enjoys understanding the intense politic of the day. Men like these were fervent readers of the classics like Plutarch, and Titus Livy. Machiavelli eventually was exiled from the city he loved, and sadly he never saw his Italy he loved so much unified.



http://www.mega.it/eng/egui/monu/spvecch.htm

La Vita Notturna a Firenze...

Uffizi Galleria, the largest warehouse of high art anywhere in the world looking towards the Palazzo Vecchio home to the Medici Court. Machiavelli and other great minds worked in and out of the Palazzo Vecchio while the Medici were in power.























Photograph taken on the Ponte Vecchio around midnight.

The evenings in Firenze were always so interesting to me. I enjoyed going out at night after dinner for a walk to the Ponte Vecchio, or for gelato with friends or for a glass of wine. Across from the Uffizi Galleria I could usually find musicians, dancers, mime, or other students to hang out with for a couple of hours. I met people from all walks of life, colorful and eclectic artists, writers, students, a lot of professors and I am sure I spoke to one or two criminals. The air always felt lighter at night and people were usually in a very jovial mood, perhaps it was just the Chianti working on them at that hour of the night. It seemed that I attracted people that wanted to discuss politics or American culture. I was told how unsophisticated and uncultivated we Americans are but I had a response for the fiftyish female who claimed she was a German fashion designer. Who the heck was she kidding, German fashion? Yeah…Right! And I am an heiress to a rather large fortune. I responded the only way I knew how with someone so very narrow minded with "We are cultivated enough to know not to insult complete strangers”, so much for making friends with the Germans", I am kidding! I was very charitable to her, much more than she deserved.

My feelings are not that easily hurt but this lady was brutal, really! The problem with this gal was that she was waif thin, trying to continue to fit into her beautiful German designed clothing. Hmm... Oh the pressures of starving oneself to wear prêt a porter silk has just gotten the best of her and I know French design work when I see it…German, my eye! The poor thing was just plain hungry and mean spirited, she was looking to fight with someone and I just happened to be the lucky soul! I am not goaded that easily into a fight. I was warned about her by the owners of the little haunt that I went to for my favorite Vino Nobile. I figured I would drink the best wine I could afford. It helped me to sleep so much better, really! The Italian pharmacists perscribed it for what ailed me. No, I wasn't homesick...I roomed with five wild girls that didn't let me sleep and there is a lot of noise on the streets at all hours of the night, mostly scooters that would have benefited from an exhaust pipe! Mamma Mia!

Urbino..beyond the foothills in Marche

The photograpgh of Dr. Fantoni, Dr. Medicus and the group was taken on the balcony of Palazzo Ducale. Urbino the home to artist Raphael and the artistic center noted for its painting school during the Renaissance. Urbino sits in the beautiful hills of Marche, a region four hours north of Florence by tourbus. Trust me an Italian sports car riding over countryside switchbacks doesn't make you sick like a tourbus and is a hell of a lot more fun! I'll share that with you later in the journal when I tell of Greve in Chianti.

Marche is a central region of Italy on the east coast composed of rolling hills and fertile plains at the base of the Apennine mountains. Umbria is to the west, Emilia-Romagna where my family originated is to the north, and Abruzzo to the south.

San Marco Venezia June, 2006

Photograph..Some of our school group in San Marco piazza with Dr. Medicus after lecture. We were given the opportunity to relax and investigate on our own..I loved those moments! I see all of my roomates in this photo! Bravo.."Visconti Girls"

Dr. Fantoni and our group outside of San Marco during lecture

This is San Marco with the five cupola sitting so elegantly in the Venetian summer sky.

Other sights in Venice

People dressed in costume and masques usually stand outside of the gift shops. The costuming is very ornate, most were elegant and beautiful but some are grotesque and scary.

Gondola at Night

This photo was taken at night after our group dinner. There was enough funds left over to pay for the gondola ride. There were slight traffic jams where canals were more narrow. It was an eery sound moving through the water so slowly. The pictures turned out which surprised me.

Venetian Night Out!

With every new city there were regional differences that you notice also in the foods, the flavors and the spices In Venice we had a very lovely dinner at a locally family owned restaurant just around the corner from our hotel. Our Venetian dinner consisted of sole (sogliola), pastas and rices, wine and grappa. After dinner we all went on a gondola ride down the grand canal, well not in the same gondola, we had four all together.
The two young women in the photograph were two of my room mates Brittany and Danielle and the good looking fella is Jim..a real sweetheart...thanks Jim for putting up with all of the ladies.

Everyone was hanging in there in the heat!

Including Allie, Tamara, Jim and Wendy...we were on our way to the Academia in Venice when I took this photo. Venice June, 2006

Posing down with local graffiti

These are some pretty awesome kids who I enjoyed spending time with and sharing this trip with to Venice.
Megan, Brittany and Michael giving us all some attitude! Venice, June 2006

Elegance, Power and Archictecture inspired by Byzantium

First photo is of the fascade facing into the private courtyard of the Doge. Taken at the Doges Palace, the grand stairs leads down to San Marco.



Picture above is one of my very favorites. It captured nicely the exquisite bas relief on the banister into the Doges Palace. I love the pink and white geometric marbled fascade.

The horsemen so strong and regal was paid to help protect Venice. He was a mercenary in his day, valiantly grasping the charge, the responsibilty of protecting Venice for a large sum of money. However keep in mind that he would protect another city just as easily for the right price. Could he have been conflicted? Or did he perform his duty as charged without any deference? The beautiful and powerful equestrian statue of Condottiere Bartolomeo Colleoni 1400 - 1475 who was a native of Bergamo, where the Capella Colleoni, "the jewel of Lombard Renaissance architecture" - is to be found. He fought for Venice against Milan, and vice-versa, several times, ending up with Venice and a lot of money, which are two reasons why this statue by Andrea del Verrocchio (1435 - 1488) is there. Colleoni left in his will the monies to sponsor the statue, on the condition that it was erected in front of San Marco.

Why then is it in the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo? Well, that's where the Scuola Grande di San Marco is ...... probably not the "San Marco" the man had thought he was paying for! The statue was advanced for these times, as the horse is balanced on three legs and the advancement of the mercenary is not in question, but the bare head of Gattamelata is said to be a more skilled piece of human sculpturing. Could this have been work of another artist? Does Donatello come to mind? Check out the bronze works of Donatello in Padua. Let me know what you think.

Evidence of the archictectural influences of the Empire in Venezia

A little place we had lunch at which was just around the corner from the monastery we stayed in for the weekend while in Venice.

Studying in Italy, Venice...

Good grief...I needed to runaway from my group! I mean no time to rest, hardly a moment to scope out a interesting photo composition. You walk from the time you wake up until nightfall, it was like being in the corps. When your morale starts to wane, which mine did, I eventually got over myself. I just tried to adapt to being too hot, thirsty and in the need of a toilette. We pushed our way past crowds of people (mainly tourists), some of Venice reminded me of Disney Land, remember its a small world, something like that or could have just been the near heat stroke I think I was experiencing. I wasn't on drugs but may have considered something for a little relief. Geez...

San Marco attracts students, tourists and even some locals but eventually I got over the crowds, the heat and the exhaustion of being on the move constantly. I realised I was in one of the most elegant, powerful and mysterious cities in the world. The mosaics on San Marco alone are the most stunning that I saw with the exception of the Baptistry in Firenze. I love mosaic!! As I have studied the history of Venice, I gained an in depth understanding that it was a powerful force to be reckoned with on the Adriatic. For over a millenium...thats something to pay attention to!! Venice was never victoriouly seized or taken by outsiders. The lagoon that surrounds Venice acted as a natural built in defense to protect it.

Italian cities like Venice, thrived in the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance by playing a significant role in trade with the Middle East, connecting European countries with the Byzantine Empire. The flow of goods into the Venetian port included art, foodstuffs, glass, spices, and even livestock. I'd love to travel those trade routes someday. Trade flourished and grew throughout the 19th century permanently coloring the culture and politics of the region.

In Venice, for example, San Marco and the Doges Palace not only reflect but duplicate the Byzantine even going so far as to import major architectural elements from the Mideast such as the "Four Tetrachs" carved from porphory. The foodstuffs for example, included rich and spicy elements along with lamb and fruits such as dates and figs that lent a new richness to the culinary art of the land. The introduction of lively music, dance, art, food, spices to mention a few added an element of color and dimension to Italian life that in the Medieval had not existed.
As Northern Italy emerged from the Medieval, the dull, oppressive lifestyle of the common citizen characterized by a dearth of secular amenities including interesting music and literature, stimulating visual images, varied and tempting foods along with the now familiar Italian camaraderie started to evolve into what could be seen as modern Italian society and culture. This transformation came about because of the massive trade and influx of goods, arts, and immigrants from far away to seed the culture with new life.
Concurrently, as trade flourished so did wealth. With wealth came power and politic and all the trappings of wealth and power that characterize even our modern society yet this was happening in the thirteenth century. No newspapers. No books, yet. No CNN. No Internet.

It was everything I thought it might be and more. When we finally did get a few free hours I took off by myself and made my way into a district that is considered to be very Venetian. A lot of Venetians have left the island to go to the mainland, so much of their property has been sold off to wealthy foreign outsiders. It saddened me that they realise they are giving up their Venice and have no way to prevent it from happening. One should be careful for what they are willing to sell. America needs to think about this! Venice during the Renaissance had over 150 noble families, today they have 12 according to Mario, a local in his seventies. I talked with many locals like Mario, who long for the way times use to be in the not so recent past. Head to Dorsoduro, the locals live, work and play there.

They create art and music in this district. The food and drink are something to taste much different than in the touristry San Marco areas. My personal favorite was the quintessential Venetian cocktail made of Prosecco and Campari. I had the best espresso's, and because I spoke some Italian they were willing to be of great help to me. Perhaps, a little more than I had hoped but I was flattered. One woman insisted I was Venetian and wouldn't let me leave until I confessed to her I should be her daughter-in-law, she introduced me to her son that still lived at home and hadn't ever married. His name was Vencenzio, attractive and intelligent, and he didn't appear to be embarassed that his mother was playing matchmaker for him with a total stranger.

He insisted on buying me another Prosecco which I graciously accepted. I really dislike doing this sort of thing but I was a visitor in their city, and I didn't want to offend either one. I went with it and accepted the drink and hoped Vencenzio was just being gracious...he was. I have had experiences and am old enough to know that there often are strings attached...an unspoken obligation after a few drinks are bought, I really didn't care to get caught up in anything like that! Somehow I came to terms with my own issues not theirs. Somehow I justified accepting the drink, if I sat and continued our converstaion he wouldn't be a total stranger any longer, right? Ok..so my logic is a bit goofy. I was trying to be sensitive to their culture and I enjoyed where I was and who I was talking to....nothing more. My mother warned me though not to look into the eyes of an attractive Italian man, I was just erring on the side of caution. I left unscathed and felt a warmth from talking to Vencenzio who had dreamed of coming to the United States to live and teach music years ago. He teaches music at a local University and his mother Caterina is so proud of him. He insisted on playing the violin for me, a Vivaldi piece which I loved. Only in Venezia...Gracie Mille, Vincenzio! Bravo! My eyes took in the sights of the beautiful dreamy and watery canals of Dorsoduro as I walked back to the monastery where we stayed, I was very content to be on my own and alone with my thoughts.

Venice..Water taxi's or in Italian they are called Vaporetto, beautiful archictecture, and changing light

Looking down the Grand Canal towards Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute. Our arrival into Venice via water taxi to our hotel which was an old monastery.






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Venezia..."Serenissima" The Most Serene City

We traveled by fast train to Venice, I am one of those that can't sleep when I travel. Perhaps it is because I think I will miss something. I did enjoy looking at the way the landscape colors changed in each region. The stone of the houses and buildings reflect those color changes because of the soil from which the stone and tiles are made. So each region has its own distinct colors seen in the archictecture. On our way to Venice we passed through countryside that was abundant with poppy fields covered in red and yellow, fields and fields of large sunflowers, dotted here and there are grape vineyards and olive trees. Megan C. and I celebrated our soon to be "first arrival" to Venice, with champagne in the dinning car while everyone else was sleeping.