Friday, August 04, 2006

Studying in Italy, Venice...



Good grief...I needed to runaway from my group! I mean no time to rest, hardly a moment to scope out a interesting photo composition. You walk from the time you wake up until nightfall, it was like being in the corps. When your morale starts to wane, which mine did, I eventually got over myself. I just tried to adapt to being too hot, thirsty and in the need of a toilette. We pushed our way past crowds of people (mainly tourists), some of Venice reminded me of Disney Land, remember its a small world, something like that or could have just been the near heat stroke I think I was experiencing. I wasn't on drugs but may have considered something for a little relief. Geez...

San Marco attracts students, tourists and even some locals but eventually I got over the crowds, the heat and the exhaustion of being on the move constantly. I realised I was in one of the most elegant, powerful and mysterious cities in the world. The mosaics on San Marco alone are the most stunning that I saw with the exception of the Baptistry in Firenze. I love mosaic!! As I have studied the history of Venice, I gained an in depth understanding that it was a powerful force to be reckoned with on the Adriatic. For over a millenium...thats something to pay attention to!! Venice was never victoriouly seized or taken by outsiders. The lagoon that surrounds Venice acted as a natural built in defense to protect it.

Italian cities like Venice, thrived in the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance by playing a significant role in trade with the Middle East, connecting European countries with the Byzantine Empire. The flow of goods into the Venetian port included art, foodstuffs, glass, spices, and even livestock. I'd love to travel those trade routes someday. Trade flourished and grew throughout the 19th century permanently coloring the culture and politics of the region.

In Venice, for example, San Marco and the Doges Palace not only reflect but duplicate the Byzantine even going so far as to import major architectural elements from the Mideast such as the "Four Tetrachs" carved from porphory. The foodstuffs for example, included rich and spicy elements along with lamb and fruits such as dates and figs that lent a new richness to the culinary art of the land. The introduction of lively music, dance, art, food, spices to mention a few added an element of color and dimension to Italian life that in the Medieval had not existed.
As Northern Italy emerged from the Medieval, the dull, oppressive lifestyle of the common citizen characterized by a dearth of secular amenities including interesting music and literature, stimulating visual images, varied and tempting foods along with the now familiar Italian camaraderie started to evolve into what could be seen as modern Italian society and culture. This transformation came about because of the massive trade and influx of goods, arts, and immigrants from far away to seed the culture with new life.
Concurrently, as trade flourished so did wealth. With wealth came power and politic and all the trappings of wealth and power that characterize even our modern society yet this was happening in the thirteenth century. No newspapers. No books, yet. No CNN. No Internet.

It was everything I thought it might be and more. When we finally did get a few free hours I took off by myself and made my way into a district that is considered to be very Venetian. A lot of Venetians have left the island to go to the mainland, so much of their property has been sold off to wealthy foreign outsiders. It saddened me that they realise they are giving up their Venice and have no way to prevent it from happening. One should be careful for what they are willing to sell. America needs to think about this! Venice during the Renaissance had over 150 noble families, today they have 12 according to Mario, a local in his seventies. I talked with many locals like Mario, who long for the way times use to be in the not so recent past. Head to Dorsoduro, the locals live, work and play there.

They create art and music in this district. The food and drink are something to taste much different than in the touristry San Marco areas. My personal favorite was the quintessential Venetian cocktail made of Prosecco and Campari. I had the best espresso's, and because I spoke some Italian they were willing to be of great help to me. Perhaps, a little more than I had hoped but I was flattered. One woman insisted I was Venetian and wouldn't let me leave until I confessed to her I should be her daughter-in-law, she introduced me to her son that still lived at home and hadn't ever married. His name was Vencenzio, attractive and intelligent, and he didn't appear to be embarassed that his mother was playing matchmaker for him with a total stranger.

He insisted on buying me another Prosecco which I graciously accepted. I really dislike doing this sort of thing but I was a visitor in their city, and I didn't want to offend either one. I went with it and accepted the drink and hoped Vencenzio was just being gracious...he was. I have had experiences and am old enough to know that there often are strings attached...an unspoken obligation after a few drinks are bought, I really didn't care to get caught up in anything like that! Somehow I came to terms with my own issues not theirs. Somehow I justified accepting the drink, if I sat and continued our converstaion he wouldn't be a total stranger any longer, right? Ok..so my logic is a bit goofy. I was trying to be sensitive to their culture and I enjoyed where I was and who I was talking to....nothing more. My mother warned me though not to look into the eyes of an attractive Italian man, I was just erring on the side of caution. I left unscathed and felt a warmth from talking to Vencenzio who had dreamed of coming to the United States to live and teach music years ago. He teaches music at a local University and his mother Caterina is so proud of him. He insisted on playing the violin for me, a Vivaldi piece which I loved. Only in Venezia...Gracie Mille, Vincenzio! Bravo! My eyes took in the sights of the beautiful dreamy and watery canals of Dorsoduro as I walked back to the monastery where we stayed, I was very content to be on my own and alone with my thoughts.

1 Comments:

Blogger Linda said...

Lucky girl..Marcello is a sweetheart! Give him my love!

2:13 PM  

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